Good morning and Happy New Year from Collinsville, Mississippi where we've been for a few days ducking the inclement weather along the gulf coast. We're camped at Twiltley Branch an Army Corp of Engineers campground. I'm cutting and pasting much of the text from last year's annual report to save some time. As many of you who have been following us know, I started keeping tabs of all our expenditures when we started living in Miranda full time. For those of you out there who may aspire to the van life, living in a van down by the river, I hope this glimpse into what our costs in 2023 provide an assist. 2023 was different in that we were volunteers on San Juan Island, Washington at San Juan Island National Historical Park for 4 and 1/2 months from May to September. I again offer this disclaimer. You may experience traveling full time differently. Variables include your means, your interests, whether you're working or retired, how often you like to move, etc. Use this as a very general guide for the related costs. Costs reflect our way of traveling. The world is/remains your oyster. In 2023 we traveled 12,528 miles. That's down from 21,491 miles in 2022 and reflects our time on San Juan Island where we only traveled a little over 300 miles during our time there. We continue to chase those ideal temps and climate from state to state, sometimes succeeding, sometimes, not so much. Winter 2023 was the coldest (overall) and wettest we've experienced. Past winters in the southwestern US where we usually winter have been nothing short of wonderful, but this past year was dramatically different. We did our best to find warmer temps that, for the most part, simply didn't materialize. We camped in 85 unique spots in 19 different states in 2023. We spent 31.3 % of our flexible costs budget dining out and 20.8% on groceries (flexible costs represent 20% of our total budget). We spent more in 2023 on dining out and a bit more on groceries too. See also inflation and living on San Juan Island where costs were higher overall. Campground fees last year were $7,964.01 (12.8% of our flexible costs), an average of $663.67 a month. In 2022 we spent $10,380.65, a difference of $221.33 less monthly than in 2022. The National Park Service provided us with a full hook up campsite for 4.5 months at no charge to us as volunteers which, in part explains the difference. Our time is divided between staying at private campgrounds, National Parks, State Parks, County and City Parks. We also have the Harvest Hosts service which provides us a data base of businesses and private individuals who will allow us to stay for free for up to 5 nights. We stay on BLM land too. Every now and again we park and sleep on a city street or a driveway for a few days. That generally happens when we are visiting a friend or family. We also have a few friends with summer homes in great places that offer us refuge when we visit them. I could, of course, get off in the weeds here and tell you precisely how the Campground category is broken down, but usually our choice of campground is determined by a given route we've chosen. We prefer National, State, County, City, and BLM or free spots when we can get them, choosing private campgrounds for amenities like proximity to a city or bike trail, laundry, pool, hot tub, etc. Campendium is my go to application for finding campgrounds. While the service is generally free, we support their efforts and receive a few perks for our donations. Diesel fuel cost us $4,312.37 (6.9% of flexible costs) or an average of $359.36 a month in 2023 a decrease of $180.98 monthly over 2022. No mystery here. Traveling about 300 miles in 4.5 months while on San Juan Island decreased overall consumption. We're glad to see prices continuing to drop, and are anticipating further reductions in 2024 barring unforeseen circumstances. Fuel prices were in the $5 plus range as we departed Washington State in September. We paid $3.32 a gallon for diesel in Robertsville, Florida a few days ago. AAA reports that national wide the average price of diesel today is 3.947 a gallon. A year ago it was 4.638. We use Gas Buddy sometimes to find fuel, but generally just to give us an idea of what prices are like in the area. Prices along major highways are generally anywhere from $.20 to $1.00 more per gallon than prices sometimes only a few miles off the major highway. Also, be aware that using Gas Buddy doesn't always mean the price you see listed is the price you'll pay. Not sure what is going on, but increasingly I've found that the price is inaccurate when I get to pump. Not always, but enough to give me pause. It's a bit frustrating especially when you've traveled a bit out of the way to get the price you believe is a substantial savings. Mercedes scheduled maintenance cost $940.00 in 2023. We had an A service done in the Spring. We spent $3,847.43 (6.2% of flexible costs) on miscellaneous maintenance items such as dumping tanks, tank treatment, DEF, water filters, replacing our diesel generator with a portable Honda generator, replacing our microwave/convection oven, new Mercedes battery, replacing valves on dually tires, new shower caddy, trickle charger, and other miscellaneous items we needed for general operation. Our two electric assist Trek bikes cost us $1,333.76 (2.1% of flexible costs) to ride in 2023. Costs include repairs of flats, miscellaneous items for both bikes and major tune ups for both. The bikes serve us as transportation and recreation since we don't tow a car. November and December 2023 were spent traveling to various locations to visit with friends and family.
We spent time in Nashville with our children, in the mountains of North Georgia with our long-time friends who are more like family, and Birmingham, Alabama with other of our long-time friends who are family and most gracious hosts, Wade and Jen Anderson. We also spent time at Lake Martin with long-time friends who are family, Keith and Beth Johns. They have a wonderful and cozy cabin there. Thanksgiving was with family in Faunsdale, Alabama, Christmas with our children, Tate and Zoe, was in Nashville and Henderson, Tennessee with Zoe's family, and New Years in the mountains of North Georgia with family and friends. While we would normally be making our way to the southwest this time of year, this year we'll remain east so we can more easily make our way north to Vermont for the April 8th total solar eclipse. While we're a bit cooler than we'd ideally like to be, and tornados and hail in January are not particularly what we want to dodge, we continue to travel to new and interesting places. We plan on visiting the Atlantic coast and making our way into Florida in the coming months before heading north. We anticipate another great year on the road. Watch this space.
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Five years ago today, Melanie and I moved into Miranda and began what's proven to be the adventure of our lifetimes. We're currently camped at Canal Campground in Grand Rivers, Kentucky, a nice campground of the Army Corp of Engineers. The campground is part of Land Between the Lakes National Recreation Area. Since early in October, we've been moving more regularly than is usual for us as we made our way across the country. After leaving Grand Teton National Park where we camped for a week, we camped in Green River, Wyoming (1 night), Vernal, Utah (2 nights), Steamboat Springs, Colorado (1 cold 22 degree night), Fort Collins, Colorado (1 night), Thornton, Colorado (1 night in a Cabela's parking lot), Littleton, Colorado (1 night), Denver, Colorado (2 nights), Burlington, Colorado (1 night), Ellis, Kansas (1 night), Topeka, Kansas (2 nights), Columbia, Missouri (1 night), Wildwood, Missouri (2 nights), Lynnville, Indiana (1 night), and finally here in Grand Rivers, Kentucky (3 nights). Some of our more rapid pace had to do with our desire to position ourselves for Winter and enjoy visits with friends and family who we tend to begin missing as Fall happens each year. Some of it was due to housekeeping issues needing attention. We developed a generator problem in Wyoming (still unresolved), we needed a few coach repairs done and we developed a tire issue in Denver that finally got resolved in St. Louis. These housekeeping matters are no different than those we experienced as homeowners except they happen while on the road in places with which we may, or may not be, familiar. I was fortunate to bump into Don Klassen, the soon-to-be-semi-retired territory Sales Manager for Leisure Travel Vans, while getting work done at Van City in Saint Louis. We first met Don at Van City in June 2017 when we were considering buying our van. He let us test drive the van he was driving at the time and helped us with our order and, ultimately, our delivery. It was great to catch up with him and to meet his replacement, Randy Klassen. Among other things, we discussed the importance of being comfortable with the art of the quick pivot and learning how to negotiate needed repairs when many RV businesses are reluctant to see you since they are scheduling weeks or months out and you don't necessarily have the time to wait. It's just part of the living on the road. A shout out to my rock, Danny Dwyer, when it comes to trouble shooting problems and assisting us with getting service done over the years at Van City in St. Louis. Over the past 5 years Danny, has always been quick to respond when I text with a question or problem. He's become a friend and a great part of our travel equation. Thanks also to Van City's Service Manager, Scott, and his team for their assistance, too. From Grand Rivers, we'll slow the pace a bit, staying 3 nights again in our next location. I searched our website this morning and found what I wrote after our first year anniversary. I read a few more posts from our first year of travel and I have to say, though 5 years have passed, I'm not sure there's much I'd change or add as far as insights go for anyone considering full time travel. We're still learning, but most of the time our life on the road is pretty seamless. We continue to enjoy this life immensely and, barring any unforeseen event(s), our intention is to continue down the road a piece. Watch this space. Missingpersonsrv on Instagram Good afternoon from Helena, Montana. We're currently parked downtown in front of the state capitol building. Melanie has a work-related call in a few minutes and afterwards we hope to walk inside and take a brief tour of the building. We left San Juan Island, Washington on September 12th just under 4 and a 1/2 months after arriving there on May 2nd where we became volunteers at San Juan Island National Historical Park. Since then we've visited our friends, Nancy Crowell and Mike Carlisle, in La Connor, Washington for a few days, spent four days on the south side of Mount Rainier National Park at Cougar Rock Campground, camped in Yakima, Washington at Yakima Sportsman State Park, then on to Walla Walla, Washington, Couer d'Alene, Idaho, and Missoula, Montana. We're back in our groove on the road and enjoying traveling again. We are grateful for this life. It's a trip. Fall weather is upon us with lows in the 40's the past few days and today we began to see the beginning of the changing seasonal leaves with golds and reds showing themselves to us. Tomorrow we're headed south towards Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks. We'll be in Gardiner, Montana a few days then on to either Jackson Hole, Wyoming or nearby at Gros Ventre Campground. Beyond that, other than drifting east, dunno. I'd like to digress here to put a soft period to our summer past, one of the best of our traveling lives and certainly one of the best summers of my life while volunteering at SAJH. During the summer I heard about a series of questions one of the park's interns, Saani, was considering composing for the summer volunteers to post (somewhere). I approached her at a pot luck we hosted at our campsite and asked if I could assist her by doing portraits of the volunteers to accompanying the printed answers to her questions. She agreed, but we only ended up with three people responding before her tenure at the park was over. Melanie and I were two of the three and Allison Hurkey, Interpretive Ranger, one of our bosses at American Camp, was the third. I was remiss on this one by not forwarding the questions to others in our stellar volunteer summer group to get their responses. At this juncture the questions and responses are a good way to summarize our experience of being volunteers. Volunteering and living in a National Park is an experience we won't soon forget and one we can highly recommend to anyone who loves our parks. We are grateful for the opportunity. Melanie National parks are renowned for their abundant biodiversity and unwavering conservation efforts. What drives your passion to dedicate your time and skills towards safeguarding and preserving these natural resources? In what ways do you envision yourself making a meaningful difference as a volunteer in a national park? The National Parks are a treasure. I’m so grateful for those inspiring souls who went before us who had the grace and vision to advocate for preservation of public lands. My small part in this work is having a genuine passion for nature and history and sharing that passion with others. I hope it is contagious! What aspect of working at SJINHP do you find most enjoyable? Additionally, do you have a preferred spot within the park where you like to unwind and rejuvenate after a long day's work? My favorite work has been offering the wildlife viewing station to visitors. I’m told that our mere presence as uniformed volunteers reminds people to follow the park rules which are in place — don’t trample the prairie, give wildlife their space, and keep pets on leads — to preserve and protect the resources SAJH is commissioned to steward. It is pure joy to show people the fox kits up close (through our viewing scope), to watch them be astonished at the majesty of a bald eagle, and to help them learn about the importance of our unique prairie. Have you encountered any unexpectedly remarkable animal or visitor experiences during your time at the park? I have to say that the swearing in of Junior Rangers (young and old) has been an unexpectedly happy privilege for me. A few weeks ago, the grandson of my former boss came into the Visitors’ Center at American Camp with his completed Junior Ranger book and I did not realize until after I had sworn him in that we had this connection. Cue “It’s a Small World After All.” I’m still smiling about that one! Prior to joining SJINHP, what professional endeavors did you pursue? How do you believe the trajectory of your life led you to this point? Moreover, what specifically attracted you to the captivating allure of San Juan Island? I’ve practiced law and worked as the Executive Director for a religious nonprofit. I hope that my life has been a progression moving towards ever more fulfilling and impactful work. My husband and I have been traveling full time for nearly five years, and this is our first opportunity to serve in this capacity. This job really just fell into our laps, and we were lucky enough to be in a position to accept. Right place, right time to be in paradise for a season! Allison National parks are renowned for their abundant biodiversity and unwavering conservation efforts. What drives your passion to dedicate your time and skills towards safeguarding and preserving these natural resources? In what ways do you envision yourself making a meaningful difference as an employee in a national park? As an interpretive park ranger, it is my duty to help visitors understand why natural resources are important, and why they are protected. I find passion in teaching visitors about our resources and helping them find a connection with them. Through this, they are encouraged and driven to be courteous and respectful when visiting our park. A meaningful difference that I make almost every day is inspiring people of all ages to find something in the park that they connect with, and that they will remember for the rest of their lives. Providing families with forever memories is what makes me excited to come to work every day. What aspect of working at SJINHP do you find most enjoyable? Additionally, do you have a preferred spot within the park where you like to unwind and rejuvenate after a long day's work? I love being able to connect people with nature. Being out in the park every day has given me many opportunities to speak with people visiting from all over the world, where I am able to educate them on the park's resources, and help them find a meaningful, and personal connection to this place. After work I like to relax on the beach at Grandma's Cove and watch the Harbor Seal's "people watch". Have you encountered any unexpectedly remarkable animal or visitor experiences during your time at the park? At the beginning of the summer, I watched a fox hunt a rabbit in the prairie. Once the rabbit was captured, another fox came along to fight for the rabbit. Seconds later, a bald eagle swooped in, and began to fight both of the foxes for the rabbit. The second fox won, although it did walk away with a few battle wounds. Prior to joining SJINHP, what professional endeavors did you pursue? How do you believe the trajectory of your life led you to this point? Moreover, what specifically attracted you to the captivating allure of San Juan Island? I worked as a seasonal Park Guide at Indiana Dunes National Park for the past 2 summers, while finishing my degree in Environmental Science at Carthage College. After graduating in December, I moved out here for a permanent Interpretive Park Ranger position. What attracted me the most to San Juan Island was the beauty of not only the island, but the Pacific Northwest. The small town, the inviting and accepting people, the Salish Sea, and this beautiful park are just a few of the things that made it so easy to move so far from home. Steven National parks are renowned for their abundant biodiversity and unwavering conservation efforts. What drives your passion to dedicate your time and skills towards safeguarding and preserving these natural resources? In what ways do you envision yourself making a meaningful difference as a volunteer in a national park? I began backpacking in my early 20’s with two of my closest friends who I’ve known since middle school in Columbus, Georgia. What was at first weekend and holiday treks into the nearby mountains of north Georgia, North Carolina and Tennessee quickly expanded to vacations out west, particularly in Washington State, with a number of backpacking treks along portions of the Wonderland Trail in Mount Rainier National Park. For that reason, Mount Rainier is my favorite National Park. I have a lot of great memories of walking with friends there. My son and I backpacked the entire Wonderland Trail in the park just before he left for university a few years back. All these backpacking experiences in many remote and beautiful pristine wilderness areas within our national parks created in me a reverence and appreciation for the Park Service both as stewards of our national treasures and as places where an individual can seek solace and renewal while communing with nature. I’m unsure how to quantify what my addition as a Volunteer in Park (V.I.P. ) will mean. What came to mind after being in San Juan Island National Historical Park for a short time was a desire to be useful in as many ways as possible. For me that’s meant having a baseline knowledge of the park including the history and the flora and fauna, but also using skills I acquired as a landscaper in my early twenties to assist maintenance with the grounds around the American Camp Visitors’ Center. If there’s a need, and if I have an ability, maybe I can assist. What aspect of working at SJINHP do you find most enjoyable? Additionally, do you have a preferred spot within the park where you like to unwind and rejuvenate after a long day's work? I suppose my favorite aspect of being a V.I.P. is the interaction with visitors who have come from all over the world. I’ve enjoyed manning the wildlife viewing station which we set up each weekend to allow visitors to see the foxes, eagles, ospreys and rabbits up close while keeping the protected native prairie intact. I also really enjoy assisting maintenance with keeping the American Camp Visitors’ Center welcoming. While there are many places one might choose as a favorite spot within the park, mine is our campsite in American Camp. We have a truly wonderful view of the Salish Sea and the Olympic Mountain Range and it offers a great place for us to relax and unwind in the shade of Douglas firs and cool ocean breezes. Have you encountered any unexpectedly remarkable animal or visitor experiences during your time at the park? The foxes, rabbits and bald eagles and their interactions on the prairie at American Camp are almost always remarkable. A few days back another V.I.P., Andy, and I were discussing how fortunate we are to have been chosen for work here. He mentioned how it’s really great to visit a national park, but to live in a national park is truly extraordinary. Living in San Juan Island National Historical Park has allowed me to be in close proximity to foxes raising their kits in a dangerous environment populated by bald eagles preying on fox kits and the prey of foxes trying to feed their kits. The photographer in me also appreciates learning the habits of these creatures making it easier to make great images of the interplay between them. Being patient and keeping a respectful distance from wild animals has also been reinforced. I can’t always get the best image with my limited camera lens, but if I’m patient and because I live here, opportunities will present themselves. Prior to joining SJINHP, what professional endeavors did you pursue? How do you believe the trajectory of your life led you to this point? Moreover, what specifically attracted you to the captivating allure of San Juan Island? I have a Bachelor of Arts degree in Sociology and a Juris Doctorate. I practiced law for a number of years before becoming our family’s state-at-home dad. I’ve always maintained that one should try hard not to become stuck in time. In choices of food, music or leisure activities I’ve attempted to have an eclectic palate, to try new things. After experiencing full time travel for a few years now, I realize the value of placing yourself in a position to pivot quickly should a great opportunity present itself. I wish there was a great story behind how Melanie and I landed here, but the truth is we were beginning to plan for a summer traveling in Alaska when we received a message from a good friend, Nancy, in LaConner, Washington about the V.I.P. position here. We looked at the island and the National Park on-line and were impressed with the biodiversity, the natural beauty, and the climate and decided we could enjoy being here. As full time travelers, we hardly ever plan too far in advance with reservations, etc., so we were able to make the decision to defer an Alaskan adventure until later. We are both very happy with the decision. * Melanie and I were having a glass of wine one aftermoon at an establishment in Friday Harbor, Washington, San Juan Island, when I struck up a conversation with a person who subsequently identified himself as Ray Jackson, Mayor of Friday Harbor. Among other things he told us, he said he was never going back to America. He would live out his life on San Juan Island.
Steven While we haven't yet reached the longest period of time we've spent in one place while full time traveling, we are fast approaching critical mass in that respect. And Summer. The weather on San Juan Island has been nothing short of spectacular. Well, spectacular depending on your idea of what that means exactly. If you are looking to sunbathe, take leisurely swims in the ocean and spend your days in 90+ degree temps with high relative humidity, then prolly not so much. While we've had days in the 70's and reached low 80's maybe once or twice, the temperatures here have, generally speaking, been pleasantly in the 60's during the day and low 50's at night with the occasion low reaching into the upper 40's. For us those temps are pretty amazing, especially for May and June. Days may begin with a marine layer of clouds, but by mid to late morning those clouds burn off and blue skies prevail. We've had only 3 days where rain showed up since we arrived on May 2. The "dry" season is upon us. We'll be in the 60's for the next two weeks, low tonight, 49 degrees. This is our new normal. We've settled into our volunteer positions here working at American Camp three days a week and at English Camp one day each week, leaving us three days to relax and explore the island(s). Our days in American Camp are generally divided between the great relatively new Visitors' Center and roving the park engaging visitors as we meet them on the trails or at the wildlife viewing station we set up overlooking the protected prairie. I also spend time assisting our landscape maintenance crew with keeping the Visitor Center looking great. We're also quickly finding out how truly wonderful spending an extended period of time in a National Park is for living with wild creatures who inhabit the area. Our resident Red Foxes are a big draw for visitors to the park. Many of our visitors have never seen a fox in the wild and our open prairie affords them an opportunity to see them hunting the plentiful rabbits, voles, snakes, insects and mice, among the items on the local menu for these omnivores. Many days photographers from places all over the world can be seen with their long lenses focused on the prairie. While the foxes are not protected by San Juan National Historical Park, the native prairie and grasslands are protected and visitors are no longer allowed to walk over it, with the added advantage of giving the foxes enough space to remain wild and raise their kits in relative peace. That's not to say there are no opportunities to hike. There are at least 7 trails offering wonderful vistas of the prairie and grasslands along with the Salish Sea and Olympic Mountain range. Melanie and I roved the Mount Finlayson Loop Trail a few days back where you can experience a walk through a really nice second growth forest of Douglas Fir. While most all trees were logged when the Lime Kilns were operating into the early 1900's, the Finlayson Loop Trail offers a great example of how some of these forests are making a comeback. On our hike we saw a Pileated Woodpecker and Black Tailed Deer. The trail offers great vistas of the prairie, grasslands, Salish Sea, and Olympic Mountains. 6/27/23 Melanie has asked me several times within the past few days when we might publish again. Life happens, volunteer duties happen and time slips by when you're enjoying island time. Since my last attempt at catching us up on our joint journaling of our time here on San Juan Island, two weeks have passed. We've made the conscious decision to remain on island, with one forced exception, during that time choosing to explore additional parts of the island and familiarizing ourselves with Friday Harbor. We regularly ride the 5 miles into Friday Harbor for light grocery shopping, a meal or a beer. More on our favorite places to eat and drink later. We traveled to Tacoma, Washington just over a week ago to finish background check requirements for the National Park Service. Being late hires for this season has complicated the onboarding process, but hopefully all of that is behind us now. Besides, the ferry ride to Anacortes, Washington is a treat and we picked up fresh strawberries and scones in La Conner on the way. Costco happened to be within a few miles of our destination in Tacoma so we resupplied there too. Turns out we were fortunate our returning ferry made it back to Friday Harbor. It was out of service after it reached the island. Seems the ferries have been inconsistent at best this season. There are various explanations for this, but as you may imagine, both visitors and residents aren't happy when plans are ruined or delayed because the ferry isn't on time or operating at all. Finally, what would a small mostly rural island community be without a bit of controversy? While I don't know all the nuances of the issue, a multi-use trail has been proposed and funding procured that will take people from Friday Harbor to Zylstra Lake Preserve about 3 miles out of town. Much of the land is agricultural and while money is appropriated for purchase of the right-of-way and construction of the trail, landowners are pretty much unanimous in their opposition. I've taken to asking residents about the "No Trail" signs along San Juan Valley Road that landowners have posted a few miles before the Preserve that advocate against the trail. Suffice it to say I've gotten mostly inconsistent answers to my question. Few know much about the trail, where it will be located or why exactly residents along the road oppose it. Word on the street is there's a compromise in the works. 6/27/23
Melanie We are learning so much, and making new friends who are quite generous with their wisdom and resources. Ranger Jeff brought us watermelon for lunch one day while we picnicked at English Camp; Superintendent Lex brought us lettuces she'd grown in her garden and fresh eggs just brought in from her chicken coop; Ranger Cyrus has given us home baked goods (many made with berries and stone fruits he has foraged on the island) almost every day we have worked with him; and Ranger Allison has plied us with brownies. It's not enough that they show us this hospitality and their gratitude with such offerings, but they demonstrate their deep love of this island, our Park, and all of the creatures who live here with us by teaching us about all of it so we can share with the visitors we come into contact with. The enthusiasm is contagious, and I'm grateful every day for the chance to understand more and to give it away to fellow seekers. And, it is a very small world. One day last week as I was swearing in a new Junior Ranger named Gabe down at English Camp, Gabe's father asked me what I knew about the church services that would have been held there during the occupation. He explained that he was an Episcopalian, and that he figured they had Anglican services somewhere at the Camp. I told him that I did not know, but as I reached for our resource book to look for an answer to his question, I told him that my immediate past work had been as Executive Director of Episcopal Peace Fellowship. He said, "Well, perhaps you know my father, the Rev. Bob Davidson, who is retired as National Chair of EPF". At that I jumped up and ran around the desk to hug this stranger's neck. I said, "Know him? Father Bob hired me as ED of EPF!" I had, happily and unwittingly, just made Bob's grandson, Gabe, a Junior Ranger. We took photos and visited and made plans to try to see one another again in August when Fr. Bob and his wife, Linda, as well as Kyle's family (who live in Bellingham), return to the San Juans for vacation. I never did answer Kyle's question about the church services, but I will find the answer and write him next time I am at English Camp. Steven We are, all of us, creatures. We belong to this gorgeous world in all the same ways that the [foxes on the prairie] belong to this world. In all the same ways that the fog-shrouded trees belong to this world. You may come someday to feel trapped in asphalt and concrete, but you are not trapped. When you are restless or lonely or afraid, go for a walk in the park or a hike in the woods. Plant a little garden, if only in pots on the sidewalk. Being in the wild world will make you feel better. Get your hands dirty. I promise you will feel better. And merely by falling in love with the world, you will begin to make it better. Human beings will work to their dying breath to save something they love. Fall in love with the wild world, and you are taking the first step toward saving it. The world is beautiful. People are good.--Margaret Renkl, New York Times Good morning from American Camp, San Juan Island National Historical Park, where we've now been in residence for two weeks. Melanie and I are truly fortunate that the National Park Service has, in exchange for our volunteer services, provided us with a great spot to camp with a spectacular view of the Salish Sea and Olympic Mountain Range to our west. So much has happened in our two weeks here that it's a bit difficult to know where to start. We officially opened American Camp visitors' center on Saturday, May 13th. English Camp will officially open this coming Saturday, May 20th. We had two more days of training for V.I.P.s the beginning of last week before we began work Saturday past. The dedication of and the depth and breadth of our park service rangers' knowledge about San Juan Island National Historical Park is humbling. There are historians, biologists, botanists, geologists, and tribal liaison between the park and Coast Salish peoples, among other specialists. While I'm not sure how much of what was presented I've retained (I'm definitely the weak link between me and Melanie in that regard), I'm certain as our season here progresses, we'll be able to use much of the information provided us to assist park visitors in their enjoyment of this national park treasure. The Pig War and an emphasis on the value of negotiation over war in resolving conflict is the reason the park was established in 1966, but our Superintendent, Elexis (Lex) Fredy, was clear in sharing with us volunteers that the indigenous peoples -- the Coast Salish tribes -- are an integral part of the park's and the island's history. The new visitor's center at American Camp contains thoughtful exhibits to this end. At English Camp, a Reefnet Captain Pole and two Salmon Story Boards are there to remind visitors that indigenous people lived on the land for centuries before the English set up camp there. The Captain Pole was carved by Temosen Charles Elliott, Tsartlip, and the Story Boards by Jewell Praying Wolf James, Lummi. Our volunteer days have been divided thus far between the American Camp visitors center and a wildlife viewing station we will set up on Friday, Saturday and Sunday each week. The brainchild of Ranger Allison Herkey, the viewing station allows visitors to view wildlife in the park at a proper distance and, if visitors own an iPhone, connect via hotspot to make images and movies in real time as keepsakes. On days the viewing station is not set up we'll rove the park trails for half of each work day, interacting with visitors as interpretive rangers. Melanie
I'm so, so grateful for the National Park Service. San Juan Island National Historical Park commemorates "Peace Over War" in the telling of the peaceful resolution of the "crisis" around the establishment of the final boundary between the U. S. and Canada. The so called "Pig War" is remembered and is held out as a splendid example of successful diplomacy. However, the true heart of this Park is its interpretation of the indigenous peoples who inhabited this land since time immemorial, and the stunning and diverse flora and fauna of the land and sea found in this Eden. The new Visitors' Center at American Camp is but two years old, and it is thoughtfully curated in collaboration with leadership from the various Coast Salish peoples. In fact, you could fairly say that it is indigenous-centric. My love affair with the National Park Service began in my youth when I first visited the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. When I started working and traveling for Episcopal Peace Fellowship, Steven and I began visiting the National Parks in earnest, and I firmly believe that the Park system is one of the few ways our federal government effectively demonstrates its love for the American people and her resources. In 2019, we had the life-changing opportunity to be at Fort Monroe National Historical Park for the 400th anniversary of the first slave ship landing at Point Comfort, and I wrote a short love note about the experience HERE. The image above captures a gesture of welcome which I have experienced first hand at a gathering of the Swinomish over near what we call LaConner, WA last month. I was thrilled to find the raised hands of gratitude and honor as one of the first things visitors to American Camp see -- signaling to all who come in that this is a National Park which celebrates all the lives which have been nurtured here, have thrived here, and still have connection to this holy paradise. Our work this summer will include supporting the rangers who are protecting the endangered Island Marble Butterfly, educating visitors about the rare prairie at American Camp and the animals who call it home, and, of course, more broadly helping a new generation of visitors to fall in love with the National Park Service and its mission. Steven Greetings from San Juan Island National Historical Park. We've been located in American Camp since traveling over from Anacortes, Washington to Friday Harbor, Washington via ferry on the 2nd. Arriving early afternoon, we spent most to the rest of the day setting up camp in a more permanent fashion than we would normally. I purchased wheel covers for the sprinter and a bike cover for our electric assist bikes anticipating we'd want easier access to the bikes than storing them in our KOMO carrier gives us. Ranger Jeff gave me the code to the tool storage shed and I was able to rake and clean up debris from both our campsite, our neighbors' site (they'd not yet arrived) and our driveway. We even swept the porch of the rearing lab for the endangered Island Marble Butterfly that sits adjacent to our campsite. Afterwards, Melanie and I enjoyed an adult beverage and our view of the Salish Sea and the Olympic Mountains across the Strait of Juan de Fuca. I believe we're going to like our five months here. On the 3rd Melanie walked down to nearby Grandma's Cove to check it out while I continued to set up camp. She came back excited at having had a seal sighting and brought a shell and a piece of sea glass for our table. We then got on the bikes and headed north along the west coast of the island. Taking False Bay Drive we took our time stopping along the way to take in the views of the Salish Sea and wild flowers. We stopped briefly at Westside Preserve and spoke with a woman from Bellingham whose daughter was visiting from North Carolina. They were watching seals. We then stopped briefly at Lime Kiln Point State Park for a restroom break. Our friend, Nancy Crowell, took us to Lime Kiln when we visited the island with her a few weeks back. That time we hiked down to the lighthouse located there and she told us the park was a great spot for Orcas sightings. Continuing on the Westside Road we rode past San Juan County Park eventually connecting with West Valley Road. From there we rode past San Juan National Historical Park (English Camp) where we will be volunteering one day a week and then on into Roche Harbor where we had lunch on the pier. After lunch we stopped briefly at San Juan Islands Sculpture Park Nature Reserve then we chose the shortest route back to American Camp (15 miles) and proceeded with our ride back home enjoying another nice spring Pacific Northwest evening. Our total ride for the day was 36 miles. Yesterday morning Melanie wanted to show me Grandma's Cove so we hiked over to the Visitor's Center at American Camp and just past it to the trail head. The trail is a half mile out and back and moderate. We saw seals, an otter and met a few local folks along the way, The wild flowers are nice and we located a spot for future sunset views this summer. We then got on our bikes and rode on Cattle Point Road south towards the Cattle Point Lighthouse, stopping along the way for a great view of the prairie where we spotted a few foxes meandering. Stopping at the trailhead of the lighthouse, we walked in towards it immediately spotting a fox who appeared to be on the hunt for something. We met a nice couple from Ann Arbor, Michigan and talked to them briefly then made our way on to the lighthouse where a bald eagle was perched on the top of it. We then cycled into Friday Harbor for lunch, picked up a few grocery items we needed and cycled back to camp. Temperatures were dropping as we approached camp so we secured things outside in anticipation of a rainy day today and moved inside for the evening. Today's been mostly a rest day as rain moved into the area after midnight and has been pretty steady throughout the morning and afternoon. We had our monthly phone call with family back east in Kentucky, something to which we always look forward. It's a good day for a bit of journaling and down time. We are eager to have a few more days to explore before we engage in more work training the first of next week. We begin our volunteer duties on the 15th. Melanie
So much gratitude comes with us to this place. Our dear Nancy Crowell sent us the job listing for our VIP position back in March, and if she had not thought of us, and acted swiftly, we would not even be here. As a nature photographer, Nancy's love for this place and its creatures is all the endorsement we needed to leap with trust towards this new opportunity. She has generously shared her deep knowledge of the plants and animals of the Pacific Northwest with us -- even drove us out here for a little sneak peek a few weeks ago -- introducing us to the foxes, rabbits and bald eagles which are now our nearest neighbors. Her friendship is grace to us. It will probably take me some time before I stop thinking about her every single time I locate a red fox with the binoculars, wanting to share the moment with her and wishing I had her talent with a camera. I'm just lucky enough to be married to a very talented photographer of my own. I hope that by the end of the summer, I won't need her beside me to name the blooming things that dot the landscape. (Nancy is also a master gardener, and a patient teacher!) I'm also quite grateful that she and her husband, Michael, are just across the Sound in La Conner, WA, so we can work in some visits over the summer, perhaps even a kayak adventure to see the resident orcas. The morning of the 23rd of last month (March), our friend, Nancy who resides in La Conner, Washington sent Steven a Facebook Messenger message with a link to a Facebook posting that was recruiting for a volunteer couple for San Juan Island National Historical Park. Your intrepid wandering couple, sipping their morning brew in the back of Miranda, pondered the offer for a few minutes, talked about postponing their much anticipated summer adventure to Alaska for at least another year, and agreed the offer might just be a great way to spend five months assisting the National Park Service, exploring a part of the country they love, and spending more time with those they love in the PNW.
So we each got online, filled out the required application, and sent them on their way. Neither of us expected to hear back from the Park Service. I mean it was March, only two months before the starting time for the positions in May. We chatted about what it would be like to live on an Island, San Juan Island in Puget Sound, exploring the nearby islands too. Fifteen minutes after both applications were sent, Steven's cell phone rang. It was Ranger Jeff inquiring if we were serious about taking the position and could we be available the next day for a Microsoft Teams' interview. Yes and yes. To say we were joyful about the then real possibility of getting the positions is an understatement. We were preparing to go out for the day on a bike ride to the California coast when the call came and for most of the remainder of the day we talked intermittently about the "what ifs" should Ranger Jeff tell us we were chosen. The next day we spoke with Jeff, and yada yada yada, we got the job! We've already made our reservations for both the ferry ride across from Anacortes, Washington to Friday Harbor on May 2nd and reserved time at La Conner Marina and RV Park for a few weeks prior. Currently we're on the Oregon coast working our way north. It's still cool and rainy along the Pacific Coast and looks to remain that way for a bit yet. We'll have stops along the way at a few favorite places of ours, a stop in Oregon wine country and a maintenance stop in Salem, Oregon for Sprinter service before we arrive in La Conner the middle of April. We've decided this will be the start of some regular journaling, not just by Steven. We hope our combined efforts will be informative and engaging. Watch this space. Good afternoon from our free campsite in Borrego Springs, California on Avenue Nordeste off Christmas Circle. We'll be parked here for three days before heading over the mountains to Escondido, California and Dixon Lake Campground. If you've been following us around the country for the past 4+ years, you know part of what's happening is we chase favorable weather conditions. In winter that means finding warmer places hopefully above freezing, but preferably mild with little rain too. For many who travel like us, Florida is the place to be in winter. Florida doesn't interest us because there are so many more interesting places (at least in our humble opinions) to spend winter. We both know Florida because we grew up vacationing there. While familiarity allegedly breeds contempt, where Florida's concerned that may understate our current feelings for the state in which we're currently domiciled. Apparently, we jumped out of the Alabama frying pan into the Florida fire. Come December after catching up with friends and family in Georgia and Alabama and Tennessee, we begin drifting west. By the time we reach west Texas, generally speaking, warmer temps have found us and from there until we reach California the weather in past years has been most agreeable. Sure there are days when it's cool and the nights are cool, especially in high desert places (above 4,000 feet), but moderate temps have been the rule. Not this year. This year there have been very few days that couldn't be defined as winter days. From San Antonio, Texas to our present location in Borrego Springs, California, we've had winter. Snow, sleet, rain, and high winds. Wind out west is usual, but we've experienced a few travel days when wind was nearly a problem. A few days back we left Faywood, New Mexico headed west into Arizona. While we had breakfast in Silver City, New Mexico the National Weather Service issued a winter storm warning affecting the path I'd chosen to travel through to arrive in Safford, Arizona. We quickly pivoted south and were met with sustained winds of 35-40 miles an hour with gusts much higher than that. We've never seen so many tumbleweeds coming out of the surrounding desert crossing our path or crashing into the van. We were mostly fine until we had to change direction and move in a northwesterly direction. The Mercedes Sprinter stabilization system quickly shut down and suggested I travel to a shop. After a while we hit rain which turned to sleet and then snow. It was beautiful to see the surrounding high desert covered in snow, but also a bit concerning. The storm front passed us as we neared our Bureau of Land Management campsite for the night, but we decided to keep going because of continued high winds and we were uncertain about our chosen location in the very wet and cold desert. The next day we woke to light snow in Globe, Arizona where we'd stayed for the night, but that quickly gave way to pleasant weather as we left the mountains and traveled into Phoenix where we had breakfast and ran a few errands, including having Miranda washed at a Blue Beacon truck wash, before heading farther west. Most everyone we've spoken with about the weather agree it has been much cooler and wet in the southwest this winter. While I may sound like I'm complaining a bit about winter weather, I'm not. We could have moved farther south in some cases and been warmer, but we chose to explore places we'd not seen before and linger in places we knew would be cooler. We'll be in San Diego the first of March and as I look at the forecast we should have highs in the 60's and low's in the 40's, a nice change for sure. I mentioned in January Melanie was stepping away as executive director of Episcopal Peace Fellowship. While she's continuing to train new personnel in February to perform various jobs she performed as director and will be doing so until everyone feels comfortable, she's officially unemployed.
Yes, we're officially traveling full time and as close to on vacation as we'll get living our lives out here on the road. What that means for us this summer is planning a trip to Alaska. We've wanted to travel there since we began full time travel, but since Melanie, while employed, had to be connected to the internet most days, we put off thinking about remote Alaska. We'll stay south until Spring and then head north towards Oregon and Washington state. Our plan is to visit friends (really new-found family) in La Conner, Washington and stage our trip from there. Depending on weather, we may be able to head north into Canada sometime in May. My initial thought is to head northeast towards Calgary and connect with the Alaska highway at Dawson Creek in Canada. We're excited about starting to plan the trip, but we're also pleased to be spending more time the PNW. Watch this space. I'll leave y'all with a few iPhone shots from my walk around Borrego Springs this morning after leaving Melanie at Saint Barnabas Episcopal Church. Drive from Salton City to Borrego Springs through Anza-Borrego State Park and ending at Christmas Circle, Borrego Springs, California
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AuthorsSteven and Melanie Archives
January 2024
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